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Milan kicks off an intense Fashion Week this Tuesday with Gucci and Tom Ford in the spotlight

Milan kicks off an intense Fashion Week this Tuesday with Gucci and Tom Ford in the spotlight

Translated by

Cassidy Stephens


September 18, 2023

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After London, Milan takes over with an exciting lineup. The program includes: 176 shows, presentations and countless events. No less than eleven new names join the catwalk calendar, from beginners to great returnees, with a program dedicated to women’s ready-to-wear collections for spring/summer 2024 packed with new features. Tom Ford, Gucci and Bally offer shows with their new creative directors, Moschino celebrates its 40th anniversary and Moncler and Pharrell Williams launch their latest collaboration. The excitement is at its peak.

Milan Fashion Week – CNMI

The first day, Tuesday, starts with numerous events, before giving way to the parades. These include the Breast Cancer fashion show, organized with a series of new generation Italian designers to raise public awareness about cancer research; the Milano Moda Graduate show, featuring emerging talent from Italian fashion schools, to honor the best student of the year; and the “Maestri d’Eccellenza” awards, promoted by Fendi in collaboration with the Italian Chamber of Fashion (CNMI) and the confederation of artisans Confartigianato, to reward the best artisans in Italy. And don’t forget Calzedomania, the nighttime party and immersive experience organized around the world of tights by the Calzedonia group.

On Wednesday, the Week gets down to work with no less than thirteen shows, including those by Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Antonio Marras, Etro and Diesel, which reopens its doors to the public in an unusual format. A total of 59 physical shows are scheduled over the five days, up from 54 last February, complemented by five digital shows that will close on Monday the 25th with Pillings, Guido Vera, Maison Mencioni, Phan Dang Hoang and Laura Biagiotti. Added to this are brands that are positioned outside the catwalk calendar, such as Benetton and Annakiki, which are now included in the event program, and Francesca Liberatore, who will parade this Tuesday the 19th at the Milan Fair during Lineapelle, the fashion show. dedicated to leather.

On Thursday the 21st, the spotlight will be on the American brand Tom Ford, which has chosen the capital of Lombardy to inaugurate its new chapter with the new designer Peter Hawkings at the helm. On the same day, Prada will be present, while Moschino, which is without a creative director since the departure of Jeremy Scott in March, will celebrate its 40th anniversary with a collection signed by four of the most influential designers of the moment: Carlyne Cerf of Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu. The same day will see the presentation of Francesca Murri’s first collection for the relaunch of Fiorucci, as well as the debut of Matthew Adams Dolan as head of the women’s collections of Jacob Cohën and Lucia De Vito by Fabiana Filippi.

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The next day, Friday, the long-awaited first Sabato De Sarno show for Gucci will be presented in the Brera neighborhood, in the heart of the city, to begin the relaunch of Kering’s star brand. On the contrary, on the same day Walter Chiapponi will present his last show for Tod’s. Versace, Boss and Luisa Beccaria return on Friday, while Aigner returns to the calendar on Thursday. As for Chiara Boni La petite Robe, announced as a new name at Milan Fashion Week, it will return on Sunday the 24th after several years at New York Fashion Week.

© ImaxTree – © ImaxTree

Other programs will also be closely watched. Take Bally for example. On Saturday the 23rd, the Swiss shoemaker will present the first collection of Simone Bellotto, who succeeds Rhuigi Villaseñor, who left in May. The Attico’s first fashion show is also eagerly awaited on the same day. The luxury ready-to-wear brand, considered one of the coolest of the moment, was launched in 2016 by Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini and is 49% owned by Remo Ruffini, the boss of Moncler, through the company Archive. Saturday is sure to be a busy day, with Made in Italy heavyweights Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni and Bottega Veneta also present.

Also on Saturday, don’t miss the first show in Milan of Nigerian designer Papa Oyeyemi, who founded the androgynous brand Maxivive in 2007. Maxivive is distinguished by its creative fashion, rich in materials, cuts, details and finishes, with exclusively African influences. implied. Also seen on Sunday the 24th will be the first steps on the Milan catwalks of the Swedish brand Rave Review, founded in 2017 by Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück, known for their designs based on recycled upholstery fabrics, and of its compatriot Avavav, also launched in 2017. by Linda and Adam Friberg, who support Florentine craftsmanship in a responsible way. Joined in 2020 by Swedish creative director Beate Karlsson, she has gained visibility by generating expectation with a caustic sense of humor.

Four names are missing from the February winter edition. The Japanese designer Atsushi Nakashima, who joined Milan Fashion Week in February 2016, alternating shows and presentations, the experimental brand Vitelli by Mauro Simionato, the Anglo-Nigerian designer Ineye Tokyo James and the Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi. Invited last season by Dolce & Gabbana, this fall he is succeeded by the Brazilian Karoline Vitto, based in London, whose designs exalt the female body.

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A rich week is ahead, in which young African, Hungarian and Ukrainian designers will also be presented through a series of initiatives. Other parallel events not to be missed are the Green Fashion Oscars, the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023, held on Sunday the 24th by the Italian Chamber of Fashion, as well as a series of exhibitions, including one dedicated to photographers Luigi & Iango.

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